We are living in a consumer society marked by increasing fashion trends, endless consumption ads, and a culture that encourages constant “newness” and productivity. Researching this topic during my undergraduate Sociology degree at NUIM, I explored 18–30-year-olds’ perceptions of fast fashion consumption in Ireland. This research provided four key findings.
1) We are so caught up in what other people are doing, and peer and social media influence is pressing – perhaps it can be a source for good too. #Deinfluencing, which I will discuss.
It is nearly impossible not to be influenced in our modern world. Whether you have ditched Instagram and TikTok, like I have done for the past two years (90% of the time), or tried to ignore targeted ads and conversations around you, in some way or another, you are aware of what the market is trying to sell you at any given time. It is very difficult for many of us to step away from conformity and from what has always been the norm.
I remember that even growing up in secondary school, you had to wear black leggings and a Hollister hoodie, if you could afford it. That “uniform” was almost mandatory, but it was not as though someone sat you down and told you that. It was all communicated through social messaging about what was “cool” and what was not.
Not many people may even like to think about this in their day-to-day lives. It is a privilege to have the time to think, reflect and question things, but it is something I cannot help but do. The role of de-influencing is about seeing messages that actually encourage the opposite of consumption. In reality, much of this de-influencing may have to be self-directed, as this type of messaging is not always readily available.
I am talking about groups such as Tidy Towns, community gardens, repair cafés, and non-profit community groups that have a shared goal in mind and where the focus is not on how cool you are. By being involved in groups like these, you are actually changing the way you relate to yourself and others. Instead of viewing things through a competitive lens, you begin to focus more on well-being, shared purpose and the bigger picture.
The obsession with the individual is not necessarily our own individual fault. Ironically, it comes from the conditioning that the self is a project you should constantly be working on – Bauman, I love you. It can cause a great deal of anxiety and create the feeling that the self is a never-ending product that must constantly be improved. This naturally bleeds into heavy consumption practices because we are told that every human emotion, physical change or need can somehow be solved by something purchasable on Amazon Prime.
“A sharing economy is the future.”
2) Don’t be afraid to challenge the status quo.
Do something with meaning, not for likes or to be told, “You’re so cool”, but for a greater purpose beyond the self. You may find that you meet very ego-less people who inspire you more than an influencer ever will.
Second-hand clothing is generally only acceptable when it is considered cool, for example in expensive vintage shops, because vintage clothing itself has become a consumption trend. This poses an issue for genuine consumption habit change, as what we are really hoping for is a mindset shift towards being okay with having less. This is not to shame revolutionary apps and services such as Depop, Thrifted and the like, but rather to suggest that the solution is not simply to switch from fast fashion consumption to buying just as much second-hand clothing.
Don’t get me wrong: it is great that the clothing you wear will not require new production materials and energy. However, buying second-hand clothes, especially more than you need, can still have other impacts. It can keep your mind chasing high levels of consumption, while online purchases can also involve air miles, packaging and delivery services. It feeds the idea that you still regularly need “new” second-hand clothes as a solution.
3) The prices of some of these products are outrageous, and this is because it has become a trend.
I don’t wish to be a party pooper, and I am not saying not to buy them. But I am suggesting that it is still important to question whether you will really wear the item you are purchasing and how much value it will add to your life long-term. Otherwise, we risk falling into a similar short-term way of thinking to the one often associated with fast fashion consumption.
“Don’t be afraid to challenge the status quo, do something with meaning, not for likes.”
4) Many people are living under difficult social and economic circumstances – telling them to simply buy less can actually be out of touch.
Contrary to my previous point, buying something might be one of the few sources of joy and agency someone has in their week. We have to be careful about how we communicate this issue so that we do not unintentionally exclude people from the conversation. Instead, we should try to understand the meaning these practices may have for them.
This is a point that is often left out of discussions, both in academia and in community settings. I have often seen people dropping off a bag of clothes and leaving the swap, thinking we are simply a donation-based organisation. However, communicating the idea of actually taking a second-hand product and seeing its value as equal to or even greater than buying something new can be difficult.
In my undergraduate research, for one participant, buying a new jersey or pair of shoes was associated with external validation from peers that made them feel appreciated and respected. It was also seen as a sign of taking care of oneself and maintaining good mental health. These associations show how consumption can have meanings that go far beyond simply owning a new product.
This connotation is seen everywhere, for example when it comes to #RetailTherapy. However, these practices are harming the planet, and it can sometimes be difficult to communicate that understanding. I think a starting place is simply to have the conversation. Even if someone becomes open to attending a second-hand clothes swap or buying vintage only because it is trendy, it is still a start.
I think one of the hardest things about community-based clothes swapping or charity shopping is that it has not always been associated with “cool” people. Ironically, in the early 2000s or late 1990s in Dublin, wearing second-hand clothes was often viewed as a sign that you had a low socio-economic status or were poor. I vividly remember a childhood friend being shocked when I said, “My school skirt is second-hand.” The concept seemed completely foreign and scary to them.
If second-hand clothing has this association for people, it can be quite difficult to convince them to engage with it. That is why making these options accessible, convenient and easy to engage with is a great starting point. Over time, that awareness can slowly seep in and lead to habit and behavioural changes. However, this remains an ongoing challenge.
In addition to this research, I further explored the barriers that exist to circular fashion policy implementation from an EU perspective during my Master of Science in Public Policy and Innovation Governance at the United Nations University. This research involved a multi-stakeholder population. The findings showcased a lack of imagination beyond our current linear economic system.
Perhaps the most radical and innovative solution is to use more of what we already have, in simple, social, free and community settings.”
Perhaps the most radical and innovative solution is simply to use more of what we already have in social, free and community-based settings. This is where community clothes swaps and repair cafés have an important role to play. Rather than constantly searching for new products or technologies, they encourage us to rethink our relationship with the things we already own.
Stakeholders at the EU level are balancing economic priorities with the goals of Green Deal policies, often framing this as a “green transition” that can prioritise both economic and planetary goals. This point is widely debated, with researchers and different groups questioning whether both goals can realistically be achieved together. Some suggest that they are completely divergent and that if we continue pursuing economic growth in the same way, the planet has little hope.
What you believe about the way forward is up to you. But I hope I have at least convinced you of something that many old stories and sayings have told us: start in your own back garden first. Check what clothes you already have and work with them; if you need something, check locally first or even swap with friends and family. A sharing economy is the future!
And if you must buy, do it with intention, knowing where you buy from and choosing sustainable and ethical options where possible. Of course, no one is perfect. The point is not perfection, but becoming more conscious of the habits we have learned and the alternatives already available to us.
This conversation can extend far beyond clothes; fashion was simply the focus area of my research. I think it is an interesting example because it shows how high-consumption practices can have a long social history while also having significant environmental consequences. The fashion industry is estimated to be responsible for 8–10% of global CO₂ emissions.
Emma O’Toole is a recent graduate of Public Policy and Human Development from the United Nations University. Prior to this, she studied Sociology and Anthropology at Maynooth University. She has been an activist since the age of 18, following her own struggles with Ireland’s health system and the experience of seeking treatment abroad. More recently, she has been involved in local climate action, running a clothes swap project with Swords Tidy Towns. Emma is also a part-time yoga teacher.
